Glossary of Textile Terms

Abrasion The wearing away of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface.  
Agitation To move with rapid or aggressive brush action in order to distribute uniformly is called agitation.  
Angora Mohair, i.e., the hair of the Angora goat, is a specialty wool fiber. Under the Wool Products Labeling Act 100% mohair fabric may be identified as 100% wool. Mohair upholstery should be brushed bi-weekly with a good quality upholstery brush to mantain its appearance and keep the nap erect. 
Angora Goat
A small, hardy animal that can find nourishment in rough brush land where other animals are unable to exist. The source of mohair, the goat weights from 75-135 lbs. and grows long lustrous, curly, white fleece that may reach the ground. It is clipped once a year and yields 3.5-5 lbs. of fleece. The hairs are fine and possess remarkable strength and elasticity. The goat is native to Turkey, and derives its name from the province of Angora, where it has been raised for thousands of years. Currently, it is also raised in Texas and South Africa; which, along with Turkey, are the world's centers for mohair production. 
Antimicrobial Literally, 'against microorganisms.' A trait ascribed to various compounds that have the ability to limit, control, or stop the growth of fungi, bacteria, and other small organisms. 
Apparent
Soiling 		Something perceived as being soiled but which actually may be free of foreign substances. See 'fading' and 'Shading'. 
Australian Wool
All wool produced in Australia, the world's largest supplier. 
Axminster Carpet
A popular type of cut-pile carpet that is made on a complex loom. An unlimited number of colors and intricate designs are possible. The name Axminster comes from the town in England where this type of weave originated, although the loom itself was invented in Yonkers, New York. 
Backing The rugged woven fabric or yarn constituting the back, or bottom, layer of a carpet or rug, into which carpet pile is woven. Soils or stains that extend down through carpet pile into the backing can be quite difficult to remove. 
Beige A term for cloth in the natural or un-dyed state; beige is the French word for natural. The color beige is dyed in a wide variety of textiles and should not be confused with this definition. 
Berber
1. Originally, square carpets that were hand-woven by North African tribes made from yarns handspun from the wool of local sheep. 2. A durable, level-loop, tufted carpet having low, fat loops and pebbly texture. 
Bleeding Loss of dye from textile material during wet treatment. The color runs into the liquid and may stain other materials. 
Blemish A term that is used in quality control for a defect that is noticeable but that will not interfere with the intended use of a product. 
Blend A textile containing two or more different generic fibers, variants of the same generic fiber or different colors or grades of the same fiber. 
Border
A printed or woven pattern near the edge of a piece of fabric or rug. 
Broadloom 1. A carpet in various weaves that is woven on a loom 12 ft. or more in width.
2. A wall-to-wall carpet. 
Brocade
Rich, heavy, fabric with raised floral or figured patterns emphasized by contrasting surfaces or colors.  
Browning A yellow, red, or brown discoloration formed when cellulose, particularly jute with high lignin content (24%), is degraded in the presence of moisture. Browning is aggravated by age, alkalinity, and prolonged drying. A cleaned carpet may look fine immediately after cleaning, but as it dries, the lignin shows up as yellow or brown. This problem, which is generally correctable with a topical application of a browning treatment, is usually unavoidable and is not likely the result of negligence on the part of the cleaner 
Carpet A textile (fabric) floor covering. 
Carpet Cushion Any material (urethane foam, sponge, rubber, or fiber felt) that is placed under carpet to increase resiliency, insulation, sound absorption, wear life, and aesthetics (soft feel). 
Carpet Sweeper A mechanical, usually non-electric device used to quickly pick up larger pieces of litter or debris from a carpet. A sweeper typically fails to pick up the fine soil particles that can be picked up with a vacuum. 
Carpet Tile (Square) Pile floor covering of predetermined size that is usually square in shape. Carpet tiles are installed in portable squares, sometimes with self-adhesive backing. 
Carpet Wool A course, hairy wool used for carpets. Generally, it is obtained from native or unimproved sheep, and has a harshness and resiliency that is desirable for carpet pile because it stands erect and prevents matting. It is a class of wool that is separate and distinct from apparel wools. 
Chenille
Derived from the French word for "caterpillar"; chenille is a special yarn with pile protruding on all sides. Chenille upholstery should be brushed bi-weekly with a good quality upholstery brush to mantain its appearance and keep the nap erect. 
Chinese Carpet
Carpet weaving began in China about the 14th century. The designs are noted for motifs that include cloud borders, medallions, and flowers; the dragon - the Chinese symbol of heaven, often appears in rug designs. These rugs are woven in soft colors of a silk and wool mixture. 
Chintz
A plain weave, printed or solid color, glazed cottons or cotton blends used for apparel and such decorative household textiles as curtains and slipcovers. The glazed surface effect may be achieved by applying such finishing materials as wax or starch or a chemical resin and pressing. Glaze may be reduced or removed when chintz fabric is cleaned. 
Colorfastness A multilevel loop carpet where the taller loops are sheared. The resulting uncut loops and sheared top loops create a sculptured pattern. The texture, and often subtle variegated coloring, help to hide soil and traffic wear.  
Damask
Originally a rich silk fabric with woven floral designs made in China; it was introduced into Europe through Damascus, from which it derived its name. Now a broad group of jacquard-woven fabrics with elaborate floral or geometric patterns made of linen, cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, acetate, and other manufactured fibers, or combinations of these fibers. The pattern is distinguished from the ground luster and is reversible. In two-color damask, the colors reverse on either side. The fabric is similar to brocade but flatter. 
Dhurrie
A thick, cotton or wool rug without a pile that is made in India is called a Dhurrie. Colors are usually light or pastel. They are sometimes fringed at the ends. 
Discoloration Local or overall development of undesired color on a material.  
Distortion Any of several alterations in the appearance of carpet nap, usually occurring in entry, pivot, and high-traffic areas. 
Dry Compound Carpet cleaning method using a fibrous or powder-like absorbent material containing cleaning solvents and detergents. The material is sprinkled onto the carpet, and then agitated into the carpet pile with a machine that has a brush-like action. The cleaning compound dissolves grease and water-soluble soil, holding it in suspension until the dry compound and soil are vacuumed up. 
Dry Foam Carpet cleaning method in which liquid cleaner is applied to carpet as a foam, agitated into the carpet pile with a brush machine, and vacuumed. 
Dry Solvent A nonwater liquid (hydrocarbon) that has an ability to dissolve oils, greases, etc.  
Dye A colorant that becomes molecularly dispersed at some point during application to a textile and also exhibits some degree of permanence. Dyes may be divided into natural and synthetic types. The natural dyes are obtained from berries, roots, bark, flowers and marine growth. 
Dye Site A chemically reactive receptor on fiber surfaces to which dyes affix.  
Embossed Velvet
Velvet with a pattern in relief produced by pressing part of the pile with a deeply engraved hot roller, leaving the uncrushed pile erect. Velvet upholstery should be brushed bi-weekly with a good quality upholstery brush to mantain its appearance and keep the nap erect.  
Entry Mat Mats of various sizes and types, usually vinyl-backed and with a nylon or olefin face yarn. Entry mats are designed for use outside entry areas to arrest soil and, thus, prevent much of it from entering a structure. 
Enzyme Non-living, complex organic compounds produced by living organisms, which speed up biochemical reactions. As catalysts that are not changed or used up during a chemical reaction, enzymes break down biological substances (eggs, milk, grass) in carpet, and in such instances can be useful in cleaning. 
Extraction In the broadest sense, any method that inserts any liquid, foam or solid cleaning agent into carpet fibers and follows it with vacuum removal of the cleaning agent and the soil the agent has absorbed or loosened. Often associated more specifically with wet extraction. 
Fabric Protection A material that enhances the performance of fibers or fabrics, especially in the area of soil and stain repellency. Fabric protection is highly recommended for light colored or high value upholstery, as well in homes with children, pets or locations that see frequent entertaining. 
Face The surface of the fabric that is intended to be seen because it presents a better appearance than the other side due to its characteristics, i.e., weave, luster, finish. In many fabrics, face and back are identical. 
Fabric A flexible sheet material that is assembled of textile fibers and/or yarns that are woven, knitted, braided, netted, felted, or otherwise bonded together to give the material mechanical strength. Derived from the Latin term fabrica, which means artisan's workshop or structure. 
Fabric Protector A material that enhances the performance of fibers or fabrics, especially in the area of soil and stain repellency. Fabric protection is highly recommended for light colored or high value carpets and rugs, as well in homes with children, pets or locations that see frequent entertaining.  
Fabric Softener An additive that provides fabrics with a softer 'hand' or feel. Fabric softeners also reduce static electricity buildup in fabrics 
Fading Gradual loss of color, usually due to exposure to light (especially direct sunlight) or from contact between carpet dyes and various soils or chemical compounds. 
Fiber The fundamental component that is used in the assembly of textile yarns and fabrics. 
Filtration
A dark line that develops in or on carpet over time with the movement of air back and forth when the pressure changes inside of the home or office (when an outside door is opened, the air pressure outside is slightly different than inside). It is commonly seen along the edge of a wall, along stairs, or under a doorway where the door is usually kept closed, e.g., closets. This is a natural phenomenon that usually becomes noticeable five or more years after installation. While cleaning may improve filtration marks, it is unrealistic to expect complete removal.  
Fluorochemical Any of a variety of chemicals containing fluorine atoms attached to carbon. In textiles, a stain repeller against common spots and oily substances. 
Fortuny Print
A term given to rich, elaborate fabrics with Renaissance patterns that resemble the patterns of woven brocades. Printed with lighter colors on dark background or stamped with gold or silver on cotton or silk fabric. The prints were originally made in Venice by the designer Mariano Fortuny; who used the silk fabrics for gowns and the cotton for upholstery and draperies. 
Frieze
(Pronounced 'free-zay') A tightly twisted yarn is used to give a rough, nubby appearance to carpet pile. Frieze carpets may be loop or cut styles. 
Humidity Water vapor in the atmosphere. 
Installation The technique for affixing a carpet to a flooring surface. 
Jute
Jute is a vegetable fiber. On exposure to moisture, it turns brown and becomes weak and brittle. With the exception of cotton, jute fiber has been the most extensively used of all vegetable fibers because of its cheapness, availability, and ease of manufacture. Used for twine, burlap bags, coarse yarns, and carpet backing. 
Kilim Rug
A heavyweight, hand woven, reversible rug with hard-twisted wool filling and no pile or nap, made primarily in Turkey, Iran and Turkmenistan. The pattern consists of geometrical figures in a great variety of colors. The term means double faced. 
Leather Animal skin cured and prepared for fabrication into products. Polished leather is maintained by being hand cleaned and conditioned.  
Level Loop Pile
A carpet style - woven or tufted - with a same-height loop surface. 
Linen Linen is one of the oldest textile fibers known. Linen cloth was woven over 4,000 years ago in Egypt and is also mentioned in the Bible. In some form, the word linen appears in almost every European language. When cotton became readily available in Europe and American during the 18th century, linen use decreased. Chintz was originally made of linen. 
Loop Pile Carpet style having a surface made of uncut loops. 
Luster The amount of light reflected from the surface of a fiber, yarn or fabric. Embedded soil from infrequent cleaning can damage the luster of carpet and rug fibers. This may be referred to as traffic lane grey. Following an interim cleaning schedule will help maintain the lust of carpets and rug fibers.  
Microsuede
A generic term used to describe synthetic suede fabrics. Microsuede feels like natural suede, but is resistant to stains and discoloration; and because it is a non-woven fabric, it cannot pull or fray. 
Mohair
Hair from the Angora goat used in upholstery. The textile has velvet-like qualities, e.g., angora. Mohair is time consuming to clean properly as it must be combed out after cleaning to reset the nap. Mohair upholstery should be brushed bi-weekly with a good quality upholstery brush to mantain its appearance and keep the nap erect.  
Moiré
Moiré is a French word that means 'watered'. A finishing process that produces a wavy or rippling pattern with engraved rollers that press the design into the fabric. The differences in reflection of the rays of light from the uncrushed and crushed parts of the design result in the moiré effect. It is usually applied to ribbed fabrics. It is not permanent unless heat set or chemically set. The watermark pattern may be reduced or removed when moiré fabric is cleaned. 
Muslin A large group of firm, plain weave cotton and cotton blend fabrics in a wide range of qualities and weights from lightweight sheers to heavyweight sheetings.  
Nap Napped and sueded fabrics are those in which fiber ends are brushed up onto the surface of the fabric. Napping and sueding are applied to woven or knitted goods, and although the term pile is often used to refer to the fiber ends that appear on the surface of the cloth, the fabrics should not be confused with pile fabrics in which a separate set of yarns is used to create the pile through weaving. 
Natural Dye Dye obtained from such vegetable substances as roots, wood, bark and berries. Used since ancient times and are still used today in small quantities (although very rarely). 
Natural Fiber Fiber obtained from animal, vegetable or mineral sources. For example, wool, cotton and sisal. 
Needlepoint
A form of canvas work using thread stitches on canvas. The threads used for stitching may be wool, silk, cotton or combinations. Finished works may be made into many items including upholstery, pillows, and rugs. 
Nylon Synthetic fiber constructed of long, protein-like molecular chains. Characteristics include high strength, elasticity and quick drying. Nylon is the most common fiber used in carpet pile, representing about 62 percent by weight of carpet face fiber manufactured in the U.S. today. Other uses include hosiery, and a wide range of apparel.  
Olefin Olefin, the same as polypropylene, is a synthetic fiber in the plastics family representing about 32 percent by weight of U.S.-made market face fiber. It is used extensively in carpet backing material. 
Optical brightener Once a chemical component of many carpet shampoos, designed to cause the carpet fibers to reflect more ultraviolet rays and have a brighter appearance. Now generally not used due to possible yellowing of stain resistant carpets. 
Oriental Rug
A handmade rug produced in the Orient, especially in Asia and most notably in Iran, Turkey, Afghanistan, and China. The number of knots per square inch determines the fineness of an oriental rug. Generally made of wool, some of the finest oriental rugs have silk pile. Designs are characteristic of each country, region, and district; rich, finely blended colors are found in the better carpets. 
Persian Rug
A fine, handmade rug produced in Persia (Iran); generally considered the finest among oriental rugs. 
Pike Raised loops, tufts (cut loops), deliberately emplaced to stand away from the surface of a fabric. A pile may form all or part of the surface of the fabric. Pile should not be confused with NAP, which is formed by shredding surface yarns of fabric.Plain Weave Simplest and most important of the three basic weaves, used in about 80% of all woven fabric. Satin weave and twill are the other two basic weaves. 
Pile Brush A hand tool used to agitate carpet pile after application of a pre-conditioner and to groom the carpet after cleaning. Also used to raise and separate pile. 
Pile Crunch Bending of pile yarns or fibers in upholstery and carpet as a result of use or pressure of furniture. (These marks are known humorously as "furnadents"). 
Pile Fabric Fabric having a PILE. Some examples include: carpet, chenille, corduroy, fake fur, Terry, Velour, Velvet. 
Pile Height The measured length of pile fibers or yarns above the fabric surface.  
Piling A process of forming small tangles of fibers. These tangles are defects, which are produced when the surface of a material is rubbed either against itself or another substance or material.  
Plain Weave
Simplest and most important of the three basic weaves, used in about 80% of all woven fabric. Satin weave and twill are the other two basic weaves. 
Plush Carpet
A smooth, dense, cut pile carpet in which individual tufts are only minimally visible, and the overall visual effect is a single level of fiber ends. 
Polyester A synthetic fiber that is a type of plastic constructed of long polymers (chain-like molecules). Polyester represents slightly less than 6 percent by weight of U.S.-made face fiber. 
Printed Carpet Carpet with pattern applied by methods similar to printing flat textiles and paper. 
Random-Sheared
Textured pattern created by shearing some of the top or higher loops and leaving others looped.  
Ryan A fiber made by processing the cellulose in wood pulp, Rayon is rarely used in wall-to-wall carpeting. 
Repellent Possessing the property of resistance. Special finishes impart various types of repellency to textiles, e.g., to water, staining, oil, insects. 
Ripple This natural, but rare occurrence, is when the edge or center of a freshly cleaned carpet 'bubbles' or 'ripples'. As the backing moistened in the cleaning process responds by either relaxing or tightening, a ripple may appear. This is a self-correcting problem that goes away as the carpet dries, usually within 72 hours.  
Restoration Returning a material toward its original condition.  
Rug 1. A thick, heavy floor covering made of wool, cotton, silk, jute, or manufactured fibers with or without pile surface.
2. Carpet made of cut and bound into room dimensions and loose laid. 
Rug Back A thick, heavy floor covering made of wool, cotton, silk, jute, or manufactured fibers with or without a pile surface. 
Rug Pad Any material (urethane foam, sponge, rubber, or fiber felt) that is placed under a rug. The correct type of rug pad can increase resiliency, sound absorption, wear life, and aesthetics of an area rug.  
Satin
Term satin originates from the name of a port town in China from which these fabrics were exported during the Middle Ages. A smooth, generally lustrous fabric with a thick, close texture made of silk or manufactured fiber in a satin weave. Many fabrics that have a smooth, lustrous surface are called satin even when the weave is not a true satin weave.  
Satin Weave
One of the three basic weaves. Twill weave and plain weave are the others. A satin weave fabric has a characteristic smooth surface with a great number of yarns in the set that forms the face. 
Saxony Carpet Cut-pile carpet in a relatively dense construction, with well-defined individual tuft tips. Smoother finished saxonies are called 'plushes.'  
Sculptured Carpet Any carpet pattern formed from high and low pile areas, such as high-low loop or cut-and-loop.  
Serviceability Integrated measure of a product's utility that includes wear, life, ease of care, safety. 
Shading Dark and light areas which develop in carpet when traffic or carpet cleaning machines depress pile fibers and cause variation in light reflection. Shading can be minimized by using a pile brush. 
Shag Carpet
A deep-pile texture with long-cut surface yarns. Shag carpet was popular in the 1970s, and a new type of contemporary shag in more up-to-date colors is gaining in popularity today. 
Shrinkage Reduction in length or width of material caused by certain treatments, especially washing. 
Silk
A protein filament produced by the larvae of various insects, especially moth caterpillars, when constructing their cocoons. Silk is noted for its resilience, aesthetics, elasticity, and strength. China produces the largest portion of commercial silk.  
Sisal
A hard leaf fiber obtained from the sisal plant, Agave sisalana. It is rather coarse and is used as a binder, twine, brushes and rugs.  
Soil Retardant A chemical finish applied to carpet and fabric surfaces which inhibit attachment of soil to fiber. It is usually a topical treatment buy may also be inherent in the fiber. The application of fabric protection is highly recommended for light colored or high value carpets and rugs, as well in homes with children, pets or locations that see frequent entertaining. 
Soiling A process by which a textile becomes more or less uniformly covered or impregnated with soil. 
Spot Temporary local discoloration in a carpet caused by any very recent spill of a food, beverage or other foreign substance. If not removed quickly, some spots will become permanent stains. 
Spotting Applications of a solvent or solution to a material prior to, during or after commercial cleaning to remove or enhance removal of soil or spots in a local area. 
Sprouting A condition in which small tufts of cut-pile carpet extend above the surface.  
Stain Discoloration or soil on a local area of a textile that may be resistant to removal by washing or dry cleaning. 
Suede Most commonly refers to as a type of leather with a soft, napped finish. Suede upholstery should be brushed bi-weekly with a good quality upholstery brush to mantain its appearance. Natural hide is uncleanable by standard methods. 
Tackless Installation Where carpet is laid over pad and stretched to fit over tack strips of wood with implanted tacks to hold the carpet snugly to the wall. It is also called wall-to-wall installation. 
Taffeta
A fundamental group of fabrics made with plain weave and possessing a fine, smooth, crisp, and either lustrous or, less often, dull face. The fabric usually has a fine cross rib. Produced in many qualities, plain, figured, or printed; changeable effects and moiré are popular. 
Tapestry A heavy, hand-woven fabric with decorative designs usually depicting historical or current scenes.  
Textile Derived from the Latin term textilis, which is based on the verb texere, to weave. A broad classification of materials that can be utilized in constructing fabrics, including textile fibers and yarns. 
Texture A term referring to the appearance or hand of faric and especially such features as structure, coarseness, openness.  
Truckmount Wet extraction carpet cleaning equipment mounted in a van-type truck. The operator extends a hose and wand attachments into the building from the truck parked out doors. A common equipment configuration for residential carpet cleaning.  
Tufted Carpet Carpet construction method used to make more than 90% of carpet fabric produced in the United States. Yarns carried by many hollow needles are punched through a woven or non-woven backing material to form rows of tufts. Usually a latex coating is applied to the back of the carpet to hold the pile firmly in place. Pile may be cut or uncut, high or low. Quality depends on fibers used, tuft density, and size and twist of the pile yarns. 
Tufted Fabric A cloth decorated with fluffy tufts or multiple ply, soft twist cotton yarns or manufactured fibers, e.g., chenille. Upholstery made of tufted fabrics should be brushed bi-weekly with a good quality upholstery brush to mantain its appearance and keep the nap erect.  
Twill Weave
A basic weave characterized by a diagonal rib, or twill line, generally running upward from left to right.  
Ultrasuede Trademark of Spring Mills, for poromeric non-woven suede-like fabric. Made of 60% polyester and 40% non-fibrous urethane, and impregnated with synthetic resins. 
Upholstery Fabric Any fabric used as upholstery, i.e., to cover furniture. It is made in great variety of fibers including cotton, linen, silk, wool, manufactured fibers, and blends. Weaves include plain, twill, satin, jacquard, and dobby. Some knits are also used. 
Vacuum A machine, usually portable, that uses the suction of an electric fan motor through a hose or narrow orifice to remove dust and soil from carpets and upholstery. Regular vacuuming with a quality machine, such as a dyson, is the first step to keeping your investment looking great. 
Velvet
A pile fabric with short, closely woven cut pile that gives the fabric a rich, soft texture. Velvet is time consuming to clean properly as it must be combed out after cleaning to reset the nap. Velvet upholstery should be brushed bi-weekly with a good quality upholstery brush to mantain its appearance and keep the nap erect. 
Warp A yarn that runs lengthwise in a woven fabric. 
Water Spotting A fabric discoloration caused by drops of water; if not treated immediately, the discoloration may become a permanent stain. Some fabrics are treated with a finish to make the fabric resistant to both water and oil stains. 
Weave Passage of liquid through or along a permeable material, e.g., textiles. Wicking is a capillary effect dependent on the surface character of the material. 
Weft A yarn that runs across a woven fabric (properly termed FILLING).  
Wet Extraction Sometimes called 'hot water extraction' or 'steam cleaning' (the latter term is a misnomer in most cases due to the fact that actual steam is rarely used). A carpet cleaning method that uses an extractor to discharge a mixture of detergent, wetting agents and hot or warm water into the carpet pile. The extractor pumps pressurized jets of the cleaning mixture into the carpet and then extracts the solution and soil with a powerful vacuum. 
Wilton Carpet
Woven carpet made in a variety of patterns and textures but with a limited number of colors per pattern. 
Wool
Fiber from the fleece of the sheep or lamb, and the undercoat hair of the Angora or Cashmere goat. Currently wool is produced all over the work with Australia, New Zealand, Russia, Argentina and South Africa being the foremost growers. The wool fiber swells as it absorbs moisture and will absorb up to 50% of its dry weight without becoming saturated. It also acts as an insulator. Wool fibers are easily damaged and should not be cleaned through excessive agitation or heat. Christopher's specializes in high-end textiles; the majority of wall-to-wall carpets our specialist clean are wool and wool blends.  


Christopher's Inc.  l  Fairfax, Virginia   l  phone: 800.787.5885  l  email